Oysters Rockefeller and Sauvignon Blanc

green grapes, Wahluke Slope

Summer is fluttering away, like a moth on the lawn at dusk, however there are ways to slow its departure. Eat fresh is high on the list. Be firm in your resolve to use the remaining days for sunbathing and stargazing, and inhaling a morning breeze with your coffee. All that fresh air will get into your lungs.

Oysters Rockefeller is one of those dishes - like gremolata - that are easy and stunning. It is oysters topped and run under a broiler, and so rich in flavor it was named for the richest man in the word at the time - fin de siecle, 1899.

And Pepperbridge's new Sauvignon Blanc has the right amount of elegance in a glass to evoke the proper why yes oysters are just the thing spirit for dinner. And thank you, oh the dress, I have had it forever, from a place near Pont d'Alma.

And before you let a bit of longing creep into your day with the hints of back to school and fall dressing, remember nature bestows September on us, as a bonus month of summer. There are still fresh foods and flowers, hikes and beaches -but without the crowds.

Oysters Rockefeller

1 garlic clove
2 cups loosely packed fresh spinach
1 bunch watercress, stems trimmed
1/2 cup chopped green onions
3/4 cup (11/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, ground
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 pound (about) rock salt
24 fresh oysters, shucked, shells reserved
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

preparation

Position rack in top third of oven and preheat to 450°F. Finely chop garlic in processor. Add spinach, watercress and green onions to garlic. Process, using on/off turns, until mixture is finely chopped. Transfer mixture to medium bowl.

Combine butter, breadcrumbs, Pernod, fennel and hot sauce in processor. Process until well blended. Return spinach mixture to processor. Process, using on/off turns, just until mixtures are blended. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover; chill.)

Sprinkle rock salt over large baking sheet to depth of 1/2 inch. Arrange oysters in half shells atop rock salt. Top each oyster with 1 tablespoon spinach mixture. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake until spinach mixture browns on top, about 8 minutes.